bra

A brassiere or bra is a foundation garment to support the breasts. Originally devleoped in the 1920s, the bra is currently the most popular form of underwear for the breasts. Bras are distinct from previous types of foundation garments in that they consist of cups to contain and support the breasts.

Need for brassieres

The breasts, have very little internal support, being composed largely of adipose tissue (fat). It is believed that the primary anatomical support for the breast is provided by the Cooper's ligaments, with the skin covering the breasts offering some additional support. However, this anatomical support is usually insufficient to hold the breasts up (especially in older women), and to prevent movement of the breasts, which can cause pain and discomfort. Thus, the primary reason for wearing a brassiere or similar foundation garment is to provide external support for the breasts, increasing comfort and mobility.

Bras are believed by some to help preserve the youthful shape of breasts (which naturally sag as women grow older), an opinion which is promoted by bra manufacturers^{citation needed]}. There is some doubt about this amongst the medical community, and while a woman may choose to wear a bra for comfort or for social reasons, there is no conclusive evidence to support the notion that a woman's breasts will sag lower over her lifetime if she doesn't wear a bra. ^[1]

Some medical professionals believe that wearing a bra can actually increase breast sagging later in life because the chest muscles that support breasts are used less and atrophy from lack of use. Health benefits of breast motion and sagging have also been suggested but not substantiated[4] — for example, some researchers claim that breast movement, which is restricted by a brassiere, stimulates the lymphatic system and helps remove toxins from the body ^[2].

History

The concept of covering or restraining the breasts dates back to 6,500 years ago in Greece. Minoan women on the island of Crete 4,000 years ago wore garments that partially supported yet revealed their bare breasts. A band of cloth known as an apodesmos, or mastodeton was worn by ancient Greek women to bind down the breasts for exercise in those city-states that supported women's sports, such as Sparta. A belt could also be fastened over a simple tunic-like garment or undergarment, just below the breasts, in order to provide some support. Another word for a breast-band or belt was strophion.

A bra-like device to give a symmetrical rotundity to the breasts was patented (nr 24,033) in 1859 by Henry S. Lesher of Brooklyn, New York; although it is recognisably a bra, the design looks uncomfortable by current standards. In 1889 Herminie Cadolle of France invented the first modern bra, a two-piece undergarment called le bien-être (the well-being). The lower part was a corset for the waist, the upper supporting the breasts by means of shoulder straps. By 1905 the upper half was being sold separately as a soutien-gorge ("breast-supporter", using a euphemism for breast that usually means "throat"), the name by which bras are still known in France. Cadolle's business is still going strong. ^[3]

The brassiere was at first an alternative to the corset, for negligée or to wear at home, or for those women who had medical or political objections to corsets. After the straight-fronted corset became fashionable in the early 1900s, a brassiere or "bust supporter" became a necessity for full-busted women, as the straight-fronted corset did not offer as much support and containment as the Victorian styles. Early brassieres were either wrap-around bodices or boned, close-fitting camisoles (both worn over the corset).They were designed to hold the bust in and down, while a corset provided upwards support.

In the United States, Mary Phelps Jacob was granted a U.S. patent (nr 1,115,674) in the newly created patent category for "brassieres", in 1914. She was aided in this work by her French maid, Marie. Their invention was a lightweight, backless bra suitable for wear under low-cut evening dresses. Although it was not the first bra to be commercially produced in the U.S., the use of the name "brassiere" (rather than the older term "bust supporter") has led to the misconception that Jacob's invention was the first bra, or the first American bra; in fact, U.S. bra patents appeared in the 1860s. After making and selling a few hundred of her brassieres under the name "Caresse Crosby", Jacobs sold the patent to the Warner Brothers Corset Company in Bridgeport, Connecticut, for $1,500 (or over $25,600 in today's money). Warner's did manufacture the "Crosby" bra, but it does not seem to have been a popular style and was eventually discontinued. ^[4] Later commentators would assert that Warner's made millions off of Jacob's invention, but this appears to be untrue.

As corsets became lower during the later 1910s, the bust received less upwards support and a low, sloping bustline became fashionable. Brassieres from the late 1910s and early 1920s were merely slightly shaped bandeaus, holding the bust in and down by means of a clip attached to the corset. This culminated in the "boyish" silhouette of the early 1920s, with little bust definition.

In 1922, Ida Rosenthal, a seamstress at the small New York City dress shop, Enid Frocks, along with shop owner Enid Bissett and husband William Rosenthal, changed the look of women's fashion. The "boyish figure" then in style downplayed women's natural curves through the use of a bandeaux brassiere. Their innovation was designed to make their dresses look better on the wearer. It increased the shaping of the bandeaux bra to enhance and support women's breasts: hence the name "Maidenform", ^{[5] [6]} a play on the name of an earlier company, "Boyishform".^[7] A later innovation was the development of cup sizing for brassieres. The company they founded became the Maidenform manufacturing company. ^[8]

In 1943, Howard Hughes designed a cantilevered brassiere for Jane Russell for her appearance in the movie The Outlaw, although Russell later asserted that she never wore it. ^[9] This "lifts and separates" design went on to influence later commercial brassieres.

During the Civil Rights Movement, as the "monokini" came into play in Europe and free love became more popular in the United States, many women publicly discarded their bras as an anti-sexist act of female liberation. The act of "bra-burning", however, in which crowds of women would make a trash-can bonfire, line up, and take off and discard their bras one by one into the fire, was not a widespread practice, although it did get quite a bit of video coverage from the mass media at the time. ^[10]

Bra sizes

The size of women's breasts is often expressed in terms of bra size.

Bra sizing systems differ widely between countries, and also between manufacturers, and any system for determining bra size is not without its problems. Many women find that the only accurate way to get the right size is by trial and error with each bra type. However, there are several methods which may be used to provide an approximate size by measuring alone.

The size of a bra is commonly described by two values: the band size (a number based on the circumference of the chest at the bust, excluding the breasts), and the cup size (given by a letter, and relating to the volume of the breasts themselves). Band size is usually determined by measuring body circumference either under or above the breasts and then adding a specified amount to account for the fact that the ribcage is generally wider at the height of the breasts than at the point at which one measures. The cup size is worked out from the difference between the band size and a measurement of the chest circumference over the fullest part of the breasts.

Fitting difficulties

Women often find it difficult to find the correct bra size, and many stores have certified bra-fitting specialist who can assist.

Some bra manufacturers and distributors state that trying on and learning to recognize a proper fit is the best way to determine a correct bra size, much the same as with shoes. It has been observed that measuring systems such as that described below lead to an incorrect size, which is too big in the band, and too small in the cup.

Bras are most commonly available in cup sizes A-DD, and one generally has to go to a specialist lingerie store to find larger cup size bras.

The sizing of cup sizes can be confusing, since some manufacturers use multiple letters such as AAA or FF.

Cup sizes

It is important to note that the actual size of bra cup varies with band size, which may seem counter-intuitive. It might be expected that a 32B bra has the same cup size as a 36B bra, but this is not the case. In fact most bra manufacturers use the same size cup for bras related by an increase in cup size and adecrease in band size - the volume of the actual cups is the same for 30D, 32C, 34B, 36A etc. It is for this reason that bra sizes have "sister sizes" which are related in this way (e.g. 32C and 34B). Although it is important that a wearer has a correctly fitting bra, it is sometimes possible to that two adjacent sister sizes fit eqaully well, since the cups are the same size, and the difference in band size can be accomaodated by fastening the back strap on a different hook.

Standard measurement system

One common way of determining bra size is described here (all values measured in inches). This method may be considred as the standard system, although it is not alwasy accurate.

• First measure tightly around the torso, directly underneath the breasts. This is the frame size.
• To calculate the band size, add 5" if the frame size is an odd number, or 6" if it is even (the difference takes account of the fact that bras are only available in even sizes).
• Next measure around the chest including the fullest part of the breasts over the nipples, while standing straight with arms to the side. This is the bust size.
• The cup size is then the difference between the bust size and the band size, converted into a letter using the following table:

A common cup size system amongst European manufacturers, in order of increasing size, is: AAA-AA-A-B-C-D-DD-E-F-FF-G-GG-H-J, although the use of double letters is not consistent between manufacturers (e,g, some may use EE rather than F, DDD rather than E, etc.). The majority of bra bands run true to size (as in, a size 36 band measures, when stretched, 36 inches).

Variations in sizing

The method described above is common, though not universal and is recommended by many manufacturers. In the United States, various manufacturers and boutiques recommend adding different numbers to the measured circumference to determine band size, generally from 4 to 6 inches. A further complication is that some manufacturers say that when the under the bust measurement is 35" (89 cm) or more, only 3" (7.5 cm) should be added to determine the band size. Still others, particularly stores that specialize in specialty sizes, do not recommend adding anything to the size, as the band is meant to fit around the area measured, not higher.

Some countries (such as Asian countries) use the metric measurement system rather than the Imperial system used in the UK or the US Customary System used in the US. When metric is used, sizes usually correspond as, for example, 32 in Imperial is a 70 in metric, 34 in Imperial is a 75 in metric, and so on and so forth. In Australia dress size is used instead of band size.

Construction and fit

A bra usually consists of cups for the breasts, a center panel, and a band running around the body under the bust and a shoulder strap at each side. It is typically made of a fabric such as cotton or lace, with the cups for the breasts given shape by underwires or plastic reinforcements. The bra is usually fastened with a hook fastener on the band, typically at the back, but in some bras the fastener is situated at the front, in between the cups.

Some bras contain padding, designed to improve comfort and provide a more flattering shape — this is sometimes in the form of silicone gel packs. Push up bras, designed to enhance cleavage, usually contain padding. Breast pads or "falsies" are sometimes worn underneath the bra to give the appearance of larger breasts — this requires that the wearer wear a larger size of bra than actually required by her breasts.

It is a common misconception that the shoulder straps should bear the weight of the breasts. In fact the strap around the body should provide most of the support; it should be firm but comfortable.

• When viewed from the side, the strap that runs around the body should be horizontal and should not ride up at the back at all.

• The underwires at the front should lie flat against the rib cage and should not dig in, rub or poke out at the front.

• The breasts should be enclosed by the cups and there should be a smooth line where the fabric at the top of the cup ends.

• There should not be a ridge or bulging over the top or sides of the cups, even with a 'balconette' style or lower cut shape.

As already noted, there is no agreed standard across all manufacturers for measuring and specifying bra size; obtaining the correct size is further complicated by the fact that the size and shape of a woman's breasts fluctuate during her menstrual cycle, and also with weight gain or loss. It is estimated from the result of surveys that over 70% of women in the United Kingdom wear incorrectly fitting bras. This may be partly due to a lack of understanding of how to correctly determining bra size, it may also be due to unusual or unexpectedly rapid growth and size brought on pregnancy, weight gain, or medical conditions including virginal breast hypertrophy. It is often particularly difficult to find well-fitting bras for large breasted women due to restricted choice and limited availability. There are however an increasing number of companies that specialise in making larger size bras, such as Bravissimo.

It is, however, important that a woman's bra fits correctly, both to ensure a flattering shape and to avoid discomfort. Back pain is particularly common amongst large breasted women who wear bras which offer insufficient support. In extreme cases, such discomfort can lead to a woman seeking breast reduction surgery. An article published in the British Journal of Plastic Surgery (and referenced in an article in the Times Higher Educational Supplement in July 2003^[11]) quoted Adam Greenbaum, who is a specialist registrar in plastic and reconstructive surgery at the Wythenshawe Hospital in Manchester. Greenbaum and colleagues found that in a study of 102 women seeking breast-reduction surgery all wore an incorrect bra size. "Ill-fitting bras can exacerbate symptoms such as neck and back pain for which women seek breast reduction surgery" he said. This confirms the importance of obtaining a correctly fitting bra, and the fact that many women may be seeking surgery when a correct fitting bra may be the solution to their problem.

Types of bra

A range of styles of brassieres exist, to be worn in a variety of situations. The degrees of support varies between styles, with some being designed from a highly practical point of view, and others to provide a deliberately sexually alluring form. Many bras will fall into more than one category such as a maternity bra that is also designed to provide the lift that push-up bra would.

• Built-in bras, sometimes known as shelf bras, are a supportive brassiere like structure on the inside of another garment, such as a swimsuit or tank top, which provides support for the bust without the need for a separate bra. In most such garments, these consist of a horizontal elasticated fabric strip, although some do have cups and underwires as with other bra types.

• Bullet bras are a type of full support bra with a round tip in the end of each cup of the bra, hence the shape of the cup is similar to a bullet. Bullet bras were invented in the 1950s.

• Full support bras are a type of bra designed to offer good support for the whole of the breasts, and as such are a typical, practical bra for everyday wear.

• Mastectomy bras are designed so that a prosthesis may be held in place and are intended for women who have lost one or both breasts in mastectomy treatment for breast cancer.

• Maternity bras are slightly different from nursing bras though the terms are sometimes used interchangeably. Maternity bras are designed such that they can be expanded to adjust as the breasts increase in size over the course of a pregnancy.

• Minimizer bras are designed to de-emphasize the bust, in particular, of large-breasted women. Minimizers, by compressing and shaping the breasts, help to create the illusion of being a cup size or two smaller.

• Nursing bras are designed to help make breastfeeding simpler by allowing for easy access to the nipple. Traditionally, nursing bras are made with flaps of fabric over the cup which can be unclasped and pulled down to access the breast. Even with the "flap" pulled down, the cup of the bra supports the breast. There are also no flap versions made of stretchable fabric which can pulled to the side when it is feeding time. Underwire versions of nursing bras are discouraged because they can constrict the breast and can cause either blocked ducts or mastitis though underwire versions are readily available.

• Padded bras are simply bras with padding added inside the lining. They are designed to provide a fuller shape for small breasts and an alternative to bra stuffing, a practice among preteen and teen girls in which tissues, cotton balls, or socks are placed inside a bra to simulate larger breasts. Unlike push-up bras, however, most padded bras support the breasts but do not significantly lift them.

• Peephole bras have cups which loosely cover the breasts, but holes around the nipples. These kinds of bras do not give the breasts much support, and are generally intended for wearing in sexual situations.

• Push-up bras, are structured so that the breasts are lifted and the cleavage emphasised. The best known brand of push up bra is the Wonderbra. Many push-up bras contain padding, typically made of foam or rubber, but some contain pads filled with water, an oil/water mixture, or gel.

• Demi bras have lower cut cups, covering approximately half the breasts. These offer less support, but enable low cut garments to be worn without the bra being seen. Also known balconette. Demi bras may be designed to provide lift as a push-up bra does.

• Shelf bras have a band, usually elastic, that goes across the entire front of the chest, beneath both breasts. These are often found built into camisoles. The term is also used interchangeably with built-in bra.

• Sports bras or jogging bras are for women to wear during exercise. They are more sturdy in their construction than regular bras, and offer greater support for the chest, thus increasing comfort and reducing the chance of damage to the ligaments of the chest during high impact exercises such as jogging. They are usually made of a stretchable, absorbant fabric such as Lycra, and may be designed to draw perspiration away from the skin to reduce irritation. Many women, particularly those with large breasts, find sports bras essential for exercise, as breasts bouncing can cause pain and discomfort, as well as embarrassment. Some sports bras are meant to be worn as outerwear.

• Strapless bras, with no shoulder straps are designed for wearing with clothes that reveal the shoulders, such as halterneck tops. Convertible bras have straps which may be detached and rearranged in different ways depending on the outfit. Alternatives to regular straps for strapless bras are beaded bra straps or clear plastic bra straps, that provide support and style.

• T-shirt bras are designed without raised seams, so that a tight t-shirt may be worn without the bra being visible.

• Training bras are for girls who have begun to develop breasts but have yet to develop enough to allow for a standard sized bra to fit properly. They are of simple construction and offer little, if any, support. Training bras were invented in the 1950s in response to the desire of adolescent and pre-adolescent girls to "fit in" amongst their more developed peers. Some observers believe that training bras serve no functional purpose, and are exploitative in that they allow entrepreneurs to benefit from, and even encourage, precocious sexuality in young girls. ^[12] Still, others recognize developing tissue as sensitive and, at times, in need of coverage in order to maintain comfort. It is also said that training bras help the growth of a young girl's breasts, although there is no evidence to support this.

Culture

Statistics show the average American woman today owns six bras, one of which is a strapless bra, and one in a color other than white.

In many Western cultures, it is often considered more noteworthy not to wear a bra. Much of the TV presenter Charlie Dimmock's fame may be attributed to her reputation for gardening without a bra. ^[13] Similarly, in the late 1960s, Susan Stranks presented the Thames TV children's programme, Magpie, without wearing one, a characteristic not lost on teenage male viewers.

Although similar in appearance to the upper part of a bikini, it is not generally considered suitable to expose one's brassiere in public in western cultures, even partially, and to do so is usually considered sexually provocative. Even considering this relative cultural taboo, however, full display of a woman in only her bra is still vastly more socially acceptable than a woman's open display of her bare breasts. As an example of the relative acceptability of bra-only activity, bras have recently been used by operations like breast cancer charities to raise money, either by sponsored walks by women wearing exposed bras ^[14], or selling bras owned or decorated by celebrities.

While the practice of bra burning is commonly associated with radical feminist demonstrations^[15][16], especially the protest against the 1968 Miss America pageant, this is actually an urban legend; the protest involved merely filling a trash can with makeup, corsets, and other accoutrements of enforced femininity. A writer for Ms. Magazine coined the term "bra-burning" in order to draw a parallel with the young men who'd burn their draft cards in opposition to the Vietnam War. However, the phrase became a headline and has since been used most often as a term of ridicule by critics of feminism.^[17]

Etymology

The oft-repeated story that the brassiere was invented by a man named Otto Titzling (phonetically, the humorous tit-sling) who lost a lawsuit with one Phillip de Brassiere ("fill up de' brassiere") is an example of an urban myth ^[18]. Both names are used in a humorous song sung by Bette Midler, and featured in the movie Beaches.

The word brassiere derives from bracière, an Old French word meaning "arm protector" and referring to military uniform (bras in French means "arm"). This later became used for a military breast plate, and later for a type of woman's corset.

In modern European French, the word for a bra is soutien-gorge, (breast support) and 'brassiere' refers to a baby's vest, although it is sometimes used for the "bra-top" without formed cups. In Quebec, soutien-gorge and brassiere are synonyms.

Male Bra

Bras may be worn by men as well as women, and is becoming more common as more men are seeking support in the bust-area. This may be because they have protruding breasts necessitating support (for example as a symptom of gynecomastia) or to cover the exposure of nipples. Some bras specifically designed for men have recently been developed; these differ only superficially from the female counterparts. Article about Men's Bra's

See also

• Bikini
• Breast
• Edible Bra
• Underwear
• La Brassiere, a 2001 Hong Kong comedy film about the tentative design of the "ultimate brassiere"

References

Patents

• US002433 — 1859 Combined breast pads and arm-pit shield
• US0844242 — 1907 Bust supporter
• US1115674 — 1914 Jacob's Brassiere

External links

• Bra size calculator and fitting advice
• International bra size calculator and converter
• Illustrated Bra Glossary
• Holding Up Large Breasts - Bras, Corsets, and Coconuts on a String at h2g2